Niacinamide has become one of the most popular ingredients in Korean skincare. Also known as nicotinamide or vitamin B3, it can be found in a wide range of skincare products, from toners and serums to moisturizers and sunscreens.
But what are the actual benefits of niacinamide for the skin? Is it suitable for all skin types? What concentration should you choose, and how should you incorporate it into your routine?
In this article, discover the benefits of niacinamide for the skin, how to use it, and why it has become such an important ingredient in Korean skincare.
What Is Niacinamide?
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3, a water-soluble vitamin naturally involved in numerous cellular processes. In skincare, it is particularly valued for its versatility and good skin tolerance.
Unlike niacin, another form of vitamin B3, niacinamide is not known to cause the redness associated with the “niacin flush.” It is therefore widely used in formulations designed for everyday skincare.
Niacinamide targets several skin concerns at once: it helps support the skin barrier, balance sebum production, and improve the appearance of uneven skin tone and pigmentation. Clinical studies have also observed improvements in the appearance of fine lines, skin texture, and pigmentation with niacinamide-containing formulations.
This versatility largely explains its popularity in skincare, and particularly in Korean skincare.
What Are the Benefits of Niacinamide for the Skin?
Niacinamide Helps Strengthen the Skin Barrier
The skin barrier plays an essential role in maintaining hydration and protecting the skin from external aggressors. A weakened skin barrier can lead to dryness, tightness, or discomfort.
Niacinamide helps support the skin barrier and contributes to maintaining the skin’s balance. It is therefore particularly relevant when the goal is to maintain skin that feels supple and comfortable on a daily basis.
Niacinamide Helps Regulate Excess Sebum
A clinical study evaluated the effect of a formulation containing 2% niacinamide on sebum production. Among the Japanese participants, sebum production was significantly reduced after 2 and 4 weeks of use. Among the Caucasian participants, a reduction in surface sebum was also observed after 6 weeks.
This does not mean that niacinamide “blocks” sebum production. Rather, it contributes to a less visibly shiny and more balanced-looking complexion.
This is also why it is commonly included in skincare products designed for combination, oily, or blemish-prone skin.
Niacinamide Helps Improve the Appearance of Pores
Pores are a natural part of the skin’s structure and cannot be removed with a cosmetic product. However, their appearance can vary depending on sebum production, the accumulation of dead skin cells on the skin’s surface, and changes in skin firmness.
By helping regulate excess sebum, niacinamide can make pores appear less visible. It can therefore be particularly useful when combined with a routine designed for combination or oily skin.
Niacinamide Helps Improve the Appearance of Blemishes
Through its action on sebum balance and the skin barrier, niacinamide also has a place in routines designed for blemish-prone skin.
It does not replace dermatological treatment when a skin condition requires medical care. However, as part of a cosmetic routine, niacinamide can help care for blemish-prone skin without requiring multiple potentially irritating active ingredients.
Niacinamide Helps Improve the Appearance of Uneven Skin Tone
Niacinamide is particularly well known for its benefits in addressing the appearance of uneven pigmentation.
Topical niacinamide can help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation. A study published in the British Journal of Dermatology observed this effect after four weeks with a formulation containing 5% niacinamide.
Niacinamide does not directly prevent melanin production. Instead, it limits the transfer of pigment produced by melanocytes to epidermal cells. This mechanism helps gradually reduce the appearance of dark spots and promote a more even-looking complexion.
It can therefore be particularly interesting for anyone looking to gradually address an uneven skin tone or the appearance of dark spots.
Niacinamide Helps Maintain Skin Radiance
A dull complexion can be caused by many factors, including dehydration, the accumulation of dead skin cells, exposure to external aggressors, or uneven pigmentation.
By addressing several of these concerns, niacinamide can contribute to a more even-looking complexion and visibly brighter skin.
This “glow” effect also partly explains its popularity in Korean skincare, where the focus is often on gradually improving hydration, texture, and skin tone rather than seeking instant results.
Niacinamide and the Signs of Aging
Niacinamide can also be incorporated into routines designed for mature skin.
Clinical studies using 5% formulations have observed improvements in the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, skin texture, uneven pigmentation, and skin elasticity after 12 weeks of use.
Niacinamide is therefore not only an ingredient for younger or blemish-prone skin. Its versatility also makes it an interesting ingredient for anti-aging routines.
Which Skin Types Is Niacinamide Suitable For?
One of the main advantages of niacinamide is that it can be incorporated into a wide variety of skincare routines.
Dry skin: niacinamide can complement a routine designed to support the skin barrier and maintain good hydration.
Combination to oily skin: it is useful when the goal is to address excess sebum and the appearance of pores.
Blemish-prone skin: it can complement a routine by helping balance sebum and improve the appearance of uneven skin tone.
Mature skin: its benefits for the appearance of fine lines, skin texture, and uneven pigmentation, including dark spots, make it an interesting ingredient for an anti-aging routine.
Sensitive skin: niacinamide is generally well tolerated, but tolerance always depends on the overall formulation and the concentration used. A minimalist routine is preferable when the skin is particularly reactive.
What Niacinamide Concentration Should You Choose?
Contrary to what you might think, a higher concentration is not necessarily required to achieve good results.
For many skincare concerns, concentrations between 2% and 5% are already recognized for helping improve the appearance of pigmentation, regulate excess sebum, and support the skin barrier.
There are also products formulated with 10% niacinamide or more. These concentrations can be interesting for specific skincare goals. However, higher concentrations may be less well tolerated, particularly by sensitive skin or when introduced too quickly into a routine.
There is therefore no need to automatically look for the highest percentage. When choosing a product, consider your skin type, your specific concerns, and the overall formulation instead.
How to Use Niacinamide
Niacinamide can be used in the morning, at night, or both, depending on the product and the rest of your routine.
It can be found in different types of skincare products:
When used as a serum, it is generally applied after cleansing and toner, followed by moisturizer.
A simple routine could follow this order:
Cleanser → toner → niacinamide serum → moisturizer → sunscreen in the morning
There is no need to use multiple products containing niacinamide. If several steps in your routine already contain niacinamide, a single concentrated product may be more than enough.
Can You Use Niacinamide Every Day?
Yes. Niacinamide is generally suitable for daily use and can be applied morning and evening when well tolerated.
As with any new active ingredient, however, it is best to introduce a new product gradually and observe how your skin reacts, particularly when the formula contains several active ingredients.
Consistency is also more important than choosing an extremely high concentration. Visible improvements in the skin generally take time, often several weeks.
5 Popular Korean Skincare Products with Niacinamide
Niacinamide can be found in many Korean skincare best-sellers. Here are five popular products to discover from some of the most well-known K-beauty brands.
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide
Beauty of Joseon’s Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide combines 60% propolis extract and 2% niacinamide.
The formula targets skin radiance and blemishes while also providing hydration. It is one of the Korean brand’s best-known serums.
Anua Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum
As its name suggests, Anua’s serum contains 10% niacinamide and 4% tranexamic acid.
This combination is particularly interesting for routines focused on dark spots and a more even-looking complexion.
AXIS-Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum
AXIS-Y’s Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum contains 5% niacinamide and is one of the brand’s popular skincare products.
Its formula is designed for skin experiencing uneven tone and the appearance of dark spots, with a focus on achieving a brighter-looking complexion.
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Tone Brightening Capsule Ampoule
SKIN1004’s Madagascar Centella Tone Brightening Capsule Ampoule combines niacinamide with Centella Asiatica.
This ampoule was developed to boost radiance and improve the appearance of uneven skin tone while featuring one of SKIN1004’s signature ingredients: Centella Asiatica.
SOME BY MI Galactomyces Pure Vitamin C Glow Serum
SOME BY MI’s Galactomyces Pure Vitamin C Glow Serum combines niacinamide, vitamin C, and fermented galactomyces, among other ingredients.
This combination is an interesting option for routines focused on radiance and a more even-looking complexion.
Niacinamide: An Essential Skincare Ingredient
Niacinamide owes its popularity to its versatility. It addresses several aspects of the skin without requiring a particularly complex routine: it helps regulate sebum, supports the skin barrier, improves the appearance of pores and blemishes, and contributes to a more even-looking complexion.
This also explains its place in many Korean skincare formulations. From serums and toners to moisturizers and sunscreens, niacinamide can be incorporated into almost every step of a skincare routine.
To benefit from its properties, there is no need to use multiple products or automatically seek out the highest concentrations. The right product is first and foremost one that meets your skin’s needs and that you can use consistently.
At Shifumie, you can also discover our selection of Korean skincare products containing niacinamide, chosen for their formulations and their compatibility with a complete skincare routine.
